Parakeet Parrot Eggs For Sale, or budgies as they are also called, are one of the most popular of pet birds. Their lively natures, sweet songs, and charming personalities all add up to entertaining pets that fit into almost any home. These birds make excellent first pets for kids, teaching them responsibility on a smaller scale than taking care of a dog or cat.
Parakeets can be taught to sing tunes, speak a few words, and do simple tricks. It is also interesting to be able to understand how these birds mate and breed. Continue reading to get a glimpse into the world of the birth process of the parakeet and the hatching of the parakeet eggs.
Shortly after mating, the female parakeet will lay her first egg. Parakeet eggs are laid every other day until the hen is finished. After her second or third egg, she will start to sit on her eggs to keep them warm. She will lay on average between four and eight eggs.
This may vary by a day or two, but not much more. The male will remove any unhatch eggs from the nesting box after the young birds have been wean. Until then, they will remain in the box unless the female decides to remove them. Do not remove any eggs from the box but wait until one of the parents brings the eggs out into the main cage. This does not happen often, however, and she will sit on all her eggs until it is well past time for them all to hatch.
What temperature should Parakeet parrot eggs be incubate at?
Incubate the eggs in an incubator design for a parrot or exotic bird eggs. The incubator you use should have accurate temperature control within one-tenth of one degree, and ideally a system for humidity control. Maintain the temperature at 99.3 degrees F, and the humidity at 40 to 50 percent.
How long does it take for a parrot egg to hatch?
Incubation Duration. Parrot egg incubation periods can vary by breed but are typically between 24-30 days. Some parrot breeds can hatch in as little as 18 days. Research your specific breed to find out how long your egg will need to be incubate.
How long can eggs sit before you put them in the incubator?
Turn the eggs to a new position once daily until placing it in the incubator. Hatchability holds reasonably well up to 3 weeks. Therefore, do not store eggs for more than 3 weeks before incubating.
The female will spend up to ten days in the nesting box before producing eggs. During this time she will emerge to poo and to nibble on her mineral block – an ideal time for you to check on progress in the box and to remove egg shells or dead chicks (always with scrupulously clean hands). Otherwise, she will stay put.
The hen lays four to eight eggs, with one every two days, and each one needs incubating for 18 days (occasionally a little longer), after which they hatch. Sometimes she will only settle in for full-time incubating when the second egg has been laid. Any egg unhatched after 23 days is not going to produce a chick. An emerging chick can take several hours to break free of his shell, and this is perfectly natural, so don’t be tempted to intervene.
Any egg laid after the sixth one is in danger of having its chick trampled by older, larger siblings, which could damage the younger one’s fragile body or, at the very least, prevent it from receiving food. In these circumstances you should give the younger birds to a foster mother, if possible, or hand-feed them (see Feeding baby Budgies, below).
Note: a single hen will occasionally lay an infertile egg. This is a sign that her hormones have gone through the mating season motions in the absence of a male, and is nothing to worry about. The hen will not fret or attempt to incubate the egg. Simply remove it, and that’s that.
Budgie Eggs Not Hatching
There are a few reasons why budgie eggs may not hatch.
Females sometimes lay eggs when there are no males to fertilise them
A young pair of budgies may be unsuccessful in their mating attempts, but the female may still lay her (unfertilised) eggs
Single eggs may fail to hatch, due to a chick failing to develop properly inside, or because the egg itself somehow managed to avoid being fertilised
The hen may neglect her eggs and fail to bring them to full term – this is quite common if the budgie is a young bird
The egg may have fallen straight to the floor – either from a perch, or over the side of a cramped nesting box – in which case it will be semi-scrambled
The male bird could be infertile
If there are lots of budgies in the cage, overcrowding may be the issue – a hen may be too stressed to sit on her eggs, or other females may muscle in and either interrupt the incubation or damage the eggs
Nutrition is important – if eggs fail to hatch due to soft shells, it’s a sign that the hen didn’t get enough calcium (from cuttlefish bone or a mineral block, for example) when she was producing the eggs
Candling Budgerigar Eggs
At first glance, candling looks like a typing error for ‘handling’. It is, however, a useful method for finding out if a budgie egg is viable. It should only be carried out if you have young birds, or if the egg has been pushed out of the nest by the hen. In any other circumstance it counts as unnecessary interference.
To candle an egg, you need to shine a small bright torch on it (less liable to burn your fingers than an actual candle). You can perform this investigation without moving the eggs from the egg box (when the hen is absent), as long as you are able to get a good look at the egg as you do so. Failing that, hold it between your finger and thumb, wearing gloves. The room will need to be dark for successful candling.
The torchlight will expose the interior of the egg. If there are red veins showing through, that’s a sign of a healthy egg. If it’s well developed, you’ll be able to see the outline of the bird inside. If all you can see is a shape without any red lines, the egg is a dead one.
Budgie Eggs Thrown Out of Nest
If a hen ejects an egg from the nest, it’s unlikely to be accidental. Eggs are discarded in this way if she sees them as unwanted intruders in the nest. This is sometimes down to her instinct for things not being right, in the case of an infertile or damaged egg. It may be that the egg has been handled by the budgie’s owner, and no longer smells like her own. Always wearing clean gloves when you handle the eggs will help. Better still, don’t handle the eggs at all.
A stressful cage may also provoke the hen to this drastic action. It’s her way of abandoning ship.
Sometimes another hen will turf out the eggs. There’s no malice involved – she just wants the nesting site for herself, either to lay her own eggs in or simply to snuggle down somewhere warm on a cold night.
Budgerigar Eggs Care
Budgies are usually very good parents, and you will not need to intervene to help them rear their young. Hens will happily incubate another bird’s eggs, if such a thing proves necessary. She has a strong sense of territory in her nest box, but is unable to count her eggs or recognise individual ones. A loss or a gain will pass her by, and she will simply carry on brooding until the clutch has hatched.
There is no need to mark or number the eggs (common budgie keeper quirks in days gone by). At best you’ll gain nothing that a few notes or a simple spreadsheet can’t address, and at worst you’ll inspire the hen to eject the eggs from the nest.
Incubating Budgerigar Eggs
If you find yourself in the position of having eggs that need incubating, but no female present or willing to do the job, you can try hatching them yourself. This is actually the relatively easy part – keeping the newborn chick alive is where the really tricky stuff starts.
Buying an incubator is the only viable option, unless you can somehow maintain a temperature of 36.8 C and a 65% humidity around the eggs. A decent incubator with temperature settings and a self-turning system does for egg-hatching what a breadmaker does for flour and water.
Chicks sometimes wait 24 hours until chirping for food. This is because the nutrients from the egg yolk are keeping them satisfied post-egg. If, however, there is no sign of feeding after the first day, you will have to transfer the chick to another chick-rearing hen, or begin the delicate process of hand-rearing (see Feeding Budgie Chicks, below).
The cock will feed the hen while she’s sitting, and the feeding of the chicks is down to her, until they leave the nest at five to six weeks old. The cock may then join in the chick-feeding, but often the hen will do the weaning single-handedly.
Once the chicks have all hatched, droppings will start to accumulate rapidly. You need to clean out the nest box at least once a week, with clean hands. Remove as much of the soiled wood shavings as you can, but don’t shove the chicks around too much as you endeavour to clean their nest. If older chicks develop dirty feet, clean them as described in Cleaning Budgie Feet, above.
The chicks should not be handled before they are two weeks old. After this, however, you can gently lift them from the nest when you’re cleaning it. They will still need handling with care, as all baby birds are very fragile. Don’t worry about the parent bird panicking and abandoning their chick after handling – this very rarely happens with captive budgerigars.
If you start handling the budgies at two weeks old, they will be relatively hand-tame by the time they fledge. This will make it easy to finger-train them in later life.
Budgie second clutch
After the chicks have been weaned, the budgie pair will usually go for the second round of mating and egg-laying. This second clutch should be fine – as long as you have room for it. However, the birds often have an urge for yet another clutch of eggs after that. This is not a good idea, as the female will be exhausted by then, and may die in
the nest. Remove the nestbox and other mating stimulations, and separate the pair for a few weeks.
If your budgies have had two clutches during the season, you should also keep them egg-free for a whole year if you want them to be fully fit for breeding again.